Perhaps for some of it, but not all; its quite thin and powdery, and we want our lipsticks to be at least a little bit thick and creamy so the colour applies well and stays put. Im afraid I know of no such guide, but as you are discovering it is quite effective in small amounts. Heat either in a double boiler, or at 30% powder in the microwave, until completely melted. The lotion was very runny which worked great in a pump bottle! Thicken and stabilise your formula by adding 0.3% xanthan gum (and/or 0.3% carbomer), together with 2% or more cetearyl alcohol . Stearyl = C18 (C18H38O) Cetearyl = A blend of both. I melt the hard oils, let them cool, and then add the liquid oils. And helpful! Cetearyl alcohol is most commonly made from vegetable oils, usually coconut, palm, corn or soy. Place bowl on top of saucepan with simmering water. 4 min read. Now that we've covered the basics, I will now reveal my very own recipe. INCI. Good luck & happy making! The surface is still firm, but once I press through its clear theres a harder layer on top and the underbits and soft and a bit gooey. Pour into pre-sterilized containers and allow to come to room temp before capping. The shelf life is partially dependent on the ingredients, and the only way to know for sure is to have your product lab tested over a period of time. In 2005, CIR considered available new data and reaffirmed its original safety conclusion. Allow the butter (s) to fully melt (about 3-5 minutes). I sure love it and would highly recommend itits inexpensive, versatile, and has a long shelf life. It doesnt thicken the product so much and its much easier to apply. Phase B - caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, coco-caprylate caprate, tocopheryl acetate, dicaprylyl ether, lecithin, glyceryl stearate se, isoamyl cocoate, myrstyl myristate, cetyl alcohol. And am thinking of doing my own with melt and pour soap. Gently stir the oils and waxes to combine. It combines lovely cupuacu butter, which leaves the skin smooth and soft, macadamia nut oil to nourish dry skin, and cetyl alcohol, which gives it a soft and lovely slip! Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 05, 2019: I don't know what might have caused the waxy feeling. A great gift idea but please keep some for yourself! Make your own body butter with beeswax. . Thank you for another great post! Shown below is the famous lotion and body butter cheat sheet, which gives ingredient ratios for making several skin-care products. Its basically just a thick oil, which I am pretty keen on. Please note that nothing on this site has been designed or tested for large scale manufacturing or re-sale, and attempting to sell anything made from recipes on this website is a bit foolish and at your own risk. Anyway, the skinny on this is that BTMS-50 is better because: 1. Or use one-third each of fast-absorbing, medium-absorbing, and slow-absorbing oils. Combine in a large glass bowl. When your water phase ingredients reach 165 F., set a timer for 20 minutes and chill--I mean, relax. Whole Elise. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Heat the cetyl alcohol to 60c - 70c within the oil stage of your formulations. Want to help support Humblebee & Me? Muchlove, suki, Thanks for the update, Suki! Products to Use in. So now let's plug that into the recipe: OILS PHASE 3% Castor Oil 4% Cocoa Butter 3% Kokum Butter 2% Shea oil (or butter) 3% BTMS 1.5% Cetyl alcohol. Yup, many times Heres one. Emollient. At first I thought I wouldnt be able to dent it with my finger, but then my thumb popped through the harder surface layer and I was able to smear the mixture around a bit. Appearance. You should definitely get some, cause where were using it, nothing else compares. The key difference between cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol is that cetyl alcohol is a single chemical compound, whereas cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of chemical compounds.. Cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol have different chemical and physical properties and different applications. Pour into a tub-style container. This is the first one where I can get a bit of surface melt from running my finger across the surface of it, though, which is neat. They did not contain any humectant ingredients (because I didn't know about them) or any oils with special skin benefits (because I didn't know about them either). I am thinking about remaking it and using only 1% cetyl alcohol. The only such ingredient I can think of offhand is urea, which requires a slightly acid environment for maximum effectiveness. Marie, In something like a body butter bar Ill often reduce the wax in a formulation and replace the lost thickening power with cetyl alcohol to give the end product better slip and skin feel. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. You may also need to cut the BTMS amount in half. If you were using urea in a skin-care product--and urea is actually quite a good addition, IMHO--it might be good to test the pH of the product and perhaps include an additive to reduce it. How to manitne that PH level? When you do your ratios youre using oil to cetyl. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. If you would like to make substitutions for the soft oils in this recipe, to customize it for your own needs or other special purposes, here is information on a wide variety of oils. How often can you use it: Daily. These include cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol, which are derived from fats. Glycerin is the most commonly used humectant, but some others are Honeyquat and sodium lactate. A creamy body butter bar I made for the last-year holiday season was to die for! Poured this into a regular sized lip balm tube. 6% for a lotion or lighter cream. Now move the other saucepan to the scale and weigh out the oils without letting the containers touch the pan or disinfected work surface. Your work surfaces will be your stove and countertop--or, in my case--a worktable covered with a plastic tablecloth. The mixture will start out thin but will be quite thick once it's cooled to 100 F. Now weigh out your fragrance and Liquid Germall Plus in disinfected containers, add them to the mixture, and stick blend the heck out of it. If I chose BTMS 50, do I omit Cetyl alcohol? Just bought some finally, last week. DL-Panthenol is nice, but should not change the texture. Once dispersed, xantham is added to propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm. Thank you Marie for such great information. Looking forward to playing with it. For the thickener , I used stearic acid. Sample 5: 10% oil, 15% butter, 5% wax and 5% Montanov 202. These shavings disappear into my skin when I massage them in, but in a rather odd way. . Excellent experiment Marie! It's been hard to find any product that contained these. Based on your cetyl alcohol vs beeswax comments, can I eliminate beeswax from my deodorant recipe and incorporate cetyl alcohol in its place? 2. You might want to do this three or four times, resting your stick blender in between, so it doesn't overheat. Will it acumulate on your skin? 1% Preservative. It is so cool! Now that you know those basics, we are ready to move on to more basics. Add the cacao butter. Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, cetyl alcohol should last at least two years. Cas Number. With all body butter and lotion recipes, the tweaking possibilities are endless! Dosage: 5% for a serum. If you want a very "dry" feeling product, you could use only fast-absorbing oils, but the problem there is that the slow-absorbing, "greasy-feeling" oils (borage, flax, avocado) are often the ones that are extremely beneficial. I like working with the ceytl alcohol ..it is so nice in your Heavenly Cocoa LotionI have modded that recipe using different Essential Oils a few times already! Rock solidI cant dent this with a finger at all. I can scrape up larger flakes (almost curls) with my finger nail. Uploaded by: hungjek on 12/28/2022 Ingredients overview Welcome & happy making . Details will be found on the suppliers MSDS data sheet. We hope this is useful! Ill include it in lotions with smaller oil phases to give them body without added weight, and in anhydrous products to make them silkier. love your recipes and your ideas, your book and also your dog, she is sooo sweet! Our Natural Deodorant Base: Cetyl Alcohol, Candelilla Wax, Tapioca Starch. 20.09.2022. . I also use ewax and stearic acid. It probably doesn't, but it helps to realize that every alteration in a basic recipe will affect the end texture of the final product. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first. Add the stearic acid. I wonder how cetyl alcohol and stearic acid feel or work differently on skin? Tools. I dont really care about these things too much, so I use it in handcream, hahaha, but am always curious). DIY 'Body Shop' Body Butter. Some of these products were very good. This one is definitely translucent, and has a bit of a crystallized appearance to it, which is neat. It should just be cetyl alcohol. So,this is a call out to all peeps who mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol wax beads that Danica bought? thanks. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 21, 2017: Thank You!!! In a different heat resistance container, add phase B, and start with the glycerin. Using an immersion (stick) blender, create a vortex and add the Xanthan gum. Im wondering if I were to put a little in my whipped shea butter would it give it more stability? Now, two days after, the lotion has little, not sure how to call them, like broken pieces of sticks I have a question , do we have to measure the PH level when we making a body butter? Small white beads or pellets; it's easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. The reason for the extra water is that this mixture won't emulsify properly without 70% water. . One of Swiftcraftymonkey's blogs talks using this combination of ingredients to kind of re-create BTMS-50. Now remove the pans from heat and slowly add the water and glycerin to the pan of melted oils, stirring continually. Its also slightly translucent. Now looking at your results, I might be one step closer now to figuring out mkaing my own shampoo and conditioner! Since I cant get any suspension bases here. If you add some colorant (such as maybe a little pink mica) at this point, you will be fairly confident that everything is mixed in evenly, because you'll be able to see that the mica is evenly mixed. Is it the Cetyl Alcohol or the amount that Im using? Get out your two saucepans and spray those with IPA and wipe with paper towels. For example, Polyquaternium-10 is sometimes suggested, but it also acts as a thickening agent--so I don't know what might happen if you subbed that. The alcohols people typically worry about in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Preparing lotions and body butters in an antiseptic environment is what is known as "good manufacturing practices." Candelilla and carnauba waxes could work in some situations as theyre thinner/glassier/glossier waxes. Im in the Caribbean so it gets pretty hot. And I now have some repeat customers who say the same. In the list at the end of this article, I have given the absorption rates of most of the oils listed. I love how you took time to do this..it is a very good lesson . These include a wide array of toiletries, including hand creams, shampoos, and body washes. Answer: If your recipe doesn't contain water and is just a mixture of butters and oils, you do not need a preservative. It is very, very, firm. That has never happened. Now you just stick blend every 10-15 minutes while the mixture cools--being careful to put your gloves back on and spray them each time. Name of Recipe: Total Batch Volume: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ingredient: Amount: % Ingredient: The CA I bought is called Cetyl Alcohol Wax Beads. And if its yes, what is the perfect PH level for a body butter? Once all the water is in there, stick blend with your disinfected stick blender. If you are like me, this will make you a nervous wreck. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. If you'd like to make a simple product with what you have at hand, it's worth considering. I follow you on YouTube and IG. So, this is all very odd. CurlBlog I am assuming that you replaced the cetyl alcohol with an equal amount of stearic acid. Just line them up on a surface that need not have been disinfected. This recipe makes 200g of emulsified sugar scrub and should last for approximately 6 months. No tack, fantastic slip. Its fantastic. Your email address will not be published. Its a bit softer, absorbs a bit faster, and liquefies a bit more enthusiastically. I forget what moisturizer it is. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Please post any observations here that youve had regarding this matter, if any..b/c im just so curious if that entire lb of c.a.s worth of lotions etc were just crap b/c they were crap, as vs. that specific variety being some waxy form of c.a.? Seriously, I feel spoiled. The oil that has the highest percentage of GLA is borage oil. Thanks a ton. Someday I will have that kind of money! 0 - 5%. Prepare a water bath: add 3cm/1" of water to a wide pan. (Spray your gloves again.) Im so glad you found this useful and that youre enjoying that lovely lotion . I want my body butter to come out creamy, I do not want it to harden after it sits, I can use ewax with the oils to make it thick and creamy, I don't want to use water in my body butter. Thats the only ingredient in that list I havent worked with, so that is where I would start in narrowing down the issue. If you have problems with the stability of this emulsifier, you can try using 5-7% Olivem 1000 with 1%-4% cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol, and 0.2-0.5% xanthan gum to form a stable emulsion. BTMS-25, on the other hand, has only 25% BTMS, and Cetearyl Alcohol, as far as I can find out, has no particular skin benefits. Hi.. From here on out, you stick blend the mixture every ten or fifteen minutes while it cools. Thank you. Scrape sides of bowl using a spatula. Add the cetyl alcohol. Massage things need to be ultra-slippy, so cetyl alcohol was an obvious choice here! I think it's best to just balance them. None of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter recipe are far outside the neutral pH range. Cetyl alcohol is pretty unassuming. As a rule, shoot for your e-wax being 25% of your oil phase. the good: Helps to improve the texture of formulations, protect the skin from moisture loss and reduce the ability of allergens and bacteria to affect the skin. This can be done by melting 1 Cetyl Alcohol pellet in 1 ml of a preferred Carrier Oil and applying a dime-size amount of this blend to a small area of skin that is not sensitive. Thank you very much! Now you can take off your gloves and wash the jars. BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. Happy making . 35-40 degrees Celsius add the preservative. If the product is going bad, though, cetyl alcohol isnt going to fix itand if its an emulsion it is too late to add any. Safety Information. This comparison has been wonderful!! Very neat! The size of your oil phase will also be a factor, but you havent listed that. Have you ever tried having both stearic acid and cetyl alcohol in an anhydrous product? Once melted into concoctions it gives a beautiful, silky finish. Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 1, https://www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 2. So, in order to help with those questions (and why I typically say no, there is no good substitution), I wanted to do one of my quick guides using cetyl alcohol. I hope this clarifies our question about thickeners. If you use BTMS-50, my guess is that you should use the amount shown in the recipe, though the body butter may come out a bit thicker.